How to Inspection of Fabric American 4 Points System. Garment Apparel

Fabric typesThere are three type of fabric used in  the garments pants Apparel Industry. Garment Apparel

Denim(Jeans)

Twill

Lining

Denim(Jeans) : A firm durable twilled usually cotton fabric woven with colored warp and white filling thread. Durable twill woven fabric wit coloured (Usually Blue) Wrap (Length Wise) and white filling Crosswise Thread, also sometime woven in coloured stripes. The name originated in the French Serge De Names.
Twill: A textile(GARMENTS PANTS) weave in which the filling threads pass over one and under two or more warp threads to give an appearance of diagonal lines. One of the three basic textile weaves, distinguished by diagonal lines. In the simplest twill, the weft crosses over two warp yarns, then under one , the sequence being repeated in each succeeding shot (row), but stepped over, one warp either to the left or right.
The Garment(Pants) Fabric Quality Checking.
American 4 Point System
Through American 4 Point System we inspect the 10% Fabric inspection. So we categorized the Fault through points which is given below.
L length (warp Wise/Weft Wise)
Points
1 Inch to 3 Inch.
1
3 Inch to 6 Inch.
2
6 Inch to 9 Inch.
3
9 Inch to 12 Inch.
4
Per Meter total faults =4 point
In 100 meter roll 23 faults accepted if more than 23 faults then roll rejected
The formula of calculating faults is given below.
Faults Percentage= Total number of faults x 39.37

Total number of meter fabric checked x width in inches        x 100

LAB TEST The GARMENTS:POLYESTER COTTON COMPOSITION TEST:

1.       4 SWATCHES OF FABRIC TAKEN.
2.       THEN NUMBERING ON IT.
3.       SWATCHES OF FABRIC EQUAL WARP AND WEFT WISE.
4.       THEN WEIGHT OF THE EACH      SWATCH AND NOTE IT.
5.       THE 70 ML OF H2SO4 AND 30 ML OF WATER TAKEN AND MAKE A SOLUTION.
6.       DIPPED SWATCHES INTO THE SOLUTION FOR 30 MINUTES.
7.       AFTER 30 MINUTES SWATCHES WASH WITH WATER.
8.       DRY THE SWATCHES AT OVEN AT 60 DEGREE CENTIGRATES.
9.       FINALLY WEIGHTED EACH SWATCH AND NOTE IT.
10.   THE FORMULA OF POLYESTER PERCENTAGE IS GIVEN BELOW POLYESTER PERCENTAGE
= AFTER WASH WIEGHT     X   100
    BEFORE WASH WEIGHT
FIRST WASH LOAD TEST
1.       GSM
2.       PERSPIRATION TEST
3.        PH TEST
4.       RUBBING TEST
5.       WASHING TEST
GSM TEST:
GSM TEST MACHINE CUT THE GARMENTS AND THEN WEIGHTED THE CUT PIECE IN GRAMS AND MULTIPLY BY 100 TO DETERMINE THE GSM ( GRAM PER SQUARE METER).
PERSPIRATION TEST:

IN PERSPIRATION THREE SWATCHES TAKEN WIDTH 4CM AND 10CM LENGTH.
One for alkaline 2nd for acidic 3rd for distil water test.150ml solution of color fastness to alkaline in patria dish and then swatch is dip in the same way 150ml solution of color fastness at acidic is taken in patri dish and swatch is dip in it for 30 minutes. 150ml solution of color fastness to distil water is taken patri dish and swatch in it for 30 minutes also.
After 30 minutes swatch took out from the patri dish and put into the glass of the perspiration machine and then fix into the machine and fix the sqrees and put weight on it by 8 pound and then its took into the oven for 4 hour on 37°C.
PH Test (ISO 3801)
1.       2g small pieces of fabric taken.
2.       100 ml distilled water taken in a beaker and small pieces of fabric put in it. Then breaker is fixed onto the stirrer machine for 24 hours 75 to 90 RPM. And then small pieces of fabric out measure the PH of water through PH meter.
Elongation Test
Skew Percentage
Bowing percentage
Chemical Test
1.       Bleach Test
2.       Salt Test
3.       Hydrogen per Oxide Test
4.       Soda Ash Test
Fabric Faults
Broken Ends:
If a warp yarn is absent in the fabric for a very short or long distance and then this fabric defect is call broken ends.
Broken Picks:
If a weft yarn is absent in the fabric for a very short or long width and then this fabric defect is call broken picks
Floats:
Weft  Curling.

weft curling is  by the reason of  highly twisted, when weft yarn or weft are running , weft yarn on the surface of the fabric.
Slugs:
When the weft yarn is unclean and contains slugs and its diameter is irregular, the defect appearance on the cloth is known as slugs.
Stitching:
It is major defect particularly in good quality cloth. It is common fabric fault in which the ends and the picks are not interlaced according to correct order of the pattern.
Irregular Pick Density:

Hairy Cloth:
The fibers in the yarn have been roughened before, during or after weaving
Holes:
If there is any small holes present in the fabric and then it is major fabric defect.
Oil Spot:
Oil Spot on the fabrics by  the reason of too be more oiling on loom parts and other diffetent sources. 
Starting Mark:
The fault known as starting place in colth/fabric are caused as a result of stopping and starting a loom.
Shedding
When a role of fabric is dyes depth of shade of color may vary from one place to another place along the length of the fabric is known as shedding.
White spot
If the grey fabric is made of cotton and in the cotton, polyester or other synthetic fibers is mixed to a negligible amount, after dyeing the polyester fiber remain white, showing white spot in the fabric.
Running Stripe Shedding:
In the solid color dyed fabric sometime narrow stripe like color shedding affect is observed  due to dyeing fault is known as running stripe shading.
Color Spot on Fabric:
color spot on the fabric due to the fabric knots, neps, slubs.
Knots:
Caused by tying spools of yarn together.
Slub:
Usually   caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn.  Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.
Blanket Washing:
1.       A4 swatches received from source for shade working
2.       In case of not receiving A4 swatches from sources these are cut from header received in shade shrinkage department from source.
3.       Make blanket and send it to washing department with control shade attachment.
4.       If the shade approval by the QC then taken order of the fabric department to the source to supply the fabric.





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